Insight Wine

This week we recieved a new range of wines from the superb husband and wife team Steve and Cornelia. The project is called ‘Edmund St John’ and was started in 1985. They had one goal, which was to produce world class, European style wines in California. They dont physically own vineyards, they carefully seekout growers to supply them with the best quality fruit from old vines.

In 1988, the wines caught the attention of wine critic Robert Parker and subsequently the demand for the wines increased. After various production sites where used to vinify the wines, they have now settled in the Audubon Cellars in Berkeley. Production is small, and quality is high!

I havnt tried all of the wines as yet, however il start by telling you about the Bone-Joly, made from 100% Gamay.

2009 Bone-Joly - Edmund St John

Light in apperance. Fresh nose of Cherry leaf, and quite profouned pure Damson fruit. The Damson follows onto the palate. With exiting acidity that tingles through to the finish. Wonderfull wine!

Being biased, this wine is available in the UK through Roberson Wine. Get it while its hot!

Champagne,

Those who are as fascinated by it as much as I am will probably know that Champagne can be made from one of three grapes. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Champagne house’s have spent a life time perfecting the blending process of these three varietals.

There are well over 2000 independent growers who make there grow and make there own wine, rather than selling there produce to the larger ‘maisons’ to produce the brand champagnes of which we need to name no names!

One of these producers to catch my eye recently is a producer called Jérôme Prévost. His Champagne is frighteningly hard to obtain, and if your lucky enough to be in a swanky wine bar in Paris who serves his cuvee, it is well worth the price. His tiny production of 13,000 bottles per year sum up how exclusive this guy is. He only makes one wine, from one year and from one variety. 

La Closerie Cuvée Les Béguines

Prevost, a child in the late 1960’s took over his family vineyards at Gueux on the Montagne de Reims when he was twenty one. He ferments in wood, and this is what sets him aside from most other Champagne growers.. He likes the wine to have extended lees contact from indigenous yeasts in barrel rather than in bottle.

Massively rich, and complex with exotic fruit and sublimely soft bubbles. 

Im not sure there is anywhere in the UK to buy this. But when I find it I shall be buying!

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Last week I was lucky enough to be selected for a private tasting of 10 people with wine maker at Penfolds, Peter Gago. We tried a good 12 wines. And he very kindly spent 2 hours talking his way through his wine making methods for each. He very kindly opened a bottle of the prestigious 1996 Penfolds Grange with our lunch.

Still very young, this wine carried great freshness. Spice, red fruits of which the flavors seemed to hang around for the rest of the day!

Some of the stand out wines, other than the Grange, where the Bluestone and Grandfather ports. The bluestone proving a particular favorite of mine. Very nutty sherry like flavour.

Full line up!

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Last week, Majestic Wine released a limited parcel of old vintage German riesling. Dating back to 1989. These wines where an incredible bargain, and the one I got to try was £6! And it came from Michael Schafer, located in the Nahe, Rummelsheim wine region. It is always a privilege to try German rielsing this old, especially when its still as fresh as this!

Still lovely lemon and lime fruits, with that classic kerosene nose coming through with a wisp of acidity. Couldn’t believe how fresh this wine still tasted. Being Auslese, it still had a touch of residual sugar which made it even more drinkable.

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After a long working day, we generally find fizz seems to refresh and revitalize more than anything. Be it beer, Champagne or new world traditional method sparkling wines. This time was the turn of Greenpoint NV Rose. Greenpoint was purchased by by French champagne house Moët & Chandon in 1986 and is dedicated to the production of ‘méthode traditionnelle’ sparkling wine and premium quality, cool-climate still wines.

Based in South Australia, with its majority vineyard sites in the Yarra Valley, these wines have picked up quite a steady following. I believe they have re-branded the wines under the name ‘Chandon’. Unsure why, when and what the effects will be, but the wines are damn good.

Greenpoint NV Rose

The colour is reminiscent of salmon, with a slight orange tinge. Fresh cherries, citrus and stone fruit nose. Not as much yeasty backbone as I prefer in a NV but these wines still undergo the minimum 18 months aging on the yeasts. Gentle and creamy with mouth-filling red fruits, strawberry and cream characters. Very fresh and very nicely balanced. As you would expect, a little red pinot noir in the assemblage provides an extra layer of complexity. Nice dry crisp finish.

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Having planned to write this with the notes I took during this tasting Im afraid I have just realized I left them at work. However there is no lack of stories to be told! We arrived and had an introduction from the winemaker, and digressed into a serious conversation about cork or screw cap. Now bottling 80% of there wine’s in screw cap, I got the impression they regretted this decision and was seriously asked how important we thought the market was when it came down to screw caps. Essentially, our conclusion was 95% of the ‘market’ probably wouldn’t care!

I was impressed with the whole range, and was very interested in finding out cool fermentation of pressed sauvignon grapes doesn’t happen here. They put unpressed skins into tank under a layer of inert gas an ferment at the same temperature as they would there reds. 

Stand out wines? Basic label Sauvignon and Chardonnay where amazing. Along with the Cab/Sauv reserve. All mineral, and expressed there varietals extremely well. No wonder these guys have won so many awards!

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It’s all gone rose mad at the moment. Today’s sample came from Domaine Ott in Provence quality region of Bandol. Here’s the best bit, these guys Rose will set you back £25! The nose is sweet, subtle and everso elegant. Palate is soft, dry and pinches of strawberry and Orange peel. Amazing wine and quite obviously outstanding quality. Just for me, a little steep.

No picture as I’m posting from phone. But have a tasting in Mayfair tomorrow night that should be a little more interesting.

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Grüner Veltliner 2010 Weingut Pfarre Weissenkirchen

Such a wealth of luxury food and wine over the last few days. Il start with what seems to be my alternative wine of the summer. For customers seeking something different to Sauvignon, im finding Austrian Grüner Veltliner to be wine of choice. Dry, reminiscent of that herbaceous fruit you get from kiwi Sauvignon but with the oily texture and fruit of Pinot Grigio. Perfect for someone looking for a dry, fruity wine with some character. This doesn’t disappoint, and you even get that prickle on the palette not only to remind you this is ready for summer drinking, its also top quality Austrian Grüner!  

With such a inspiring wine getting my taste buds going, it seemed fitting to try out one of London’s best kept secret. And that is of Needoo’s in London’s Whitechapel, East London. Indian at its best. Host of fresh, vibrant ingredients produce a menu as traditional as it gets. Meeting the boys after a long day made it even more rewarding. We opted for the mixed grill, cooked in traditional spices. Must go again!

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